Virtual meet: Post Christmas Catch-up

Wed 13th Jan, 2021

(No Reports)

Virtual meet

Wed 27th Jan, 2021

(No Reports)

Evening meet: Hobson Moor

Wed 7th Apr, 2021

Committee members are unsure who exactly was at this one..... but possibly members Nils Elgar, Jim Symon, Andy Stratford and Duncan Zerafa.

Committee members

Evening meet: Wilton 1

Wed 14th Apr, 2021

(No Reports)

Evening meet: Running Hill Pits

Wed 21st Apr, 2021

No reports of attendance at 'the pits'.... bit of a tough venue to start the season, so maybe make it an end of season crag next year.

Committee members

Evening meet: Pule hill

Wed 28th Apr, 2021

Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon

Guest: Ian Bennett (Ex-member from many years ago!)

An excellent evening climbing a dozen or so of the superb short routes at this glorious venue with sunshine on the crag and not a midge in sight.

Evening meet: Frogsmouth Quarry

Wed 5th May, 2021

Troy (replacement venue for Frogsmouth) midweek 5^th May 2021

Members: Andy Stratford and Jim Symon

It had rained and rained for a couple of days, and as the BMC advise, climbing on sandstone after lost of rain is a no-no.... this is because the sandstone is porous and would erode much more quickly.... then there is the matter of Frogsmouth as a venue choice..... broken glass, grafitti, the sweet smell of charred bits from left over BBQ's and fires. Heaven! 

Anyway, Anglezarke was proposed as an alternative, but due to one our fave KMC weds venues 'missing' from the list - something (apparently) to do with access..... Jim and I thought it wise to check with local KMC member and Troy guru Liam Brady, and with Paul Evans (KMC sec, and BMC access team) and actually, access is still fine it is just that one needs to be a little more careful with parking on the lane, or park further up the road and walk round the edge of the moor, which adds 12 minutes to the approach.

The weather was glorious and Troy takes the sunset beautifully - we climbed a great clutch of routes - Jim leading Stacked Deck (HS 4b), Cracked Wall (VS 4c) and Rapunzle (VS 5a) with Andy leading Right Siamese Twin (S 4a), Troy Groove (VS 4b) and Little Sneak (VS 4c).

Evening meet: Castle Naze

Wed 12th May, 2021

Castle Naze weds 12^th May 2021

Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Andy Pierce, Jack Buczko, Duncan Zerafa

Prospective Members: Ian Bennett, Rory Marsden

The forecast was a little marginal but Castle Naze is a super quick drying crag – we were there from 3pm – 8.30pm and in the end we only had a few spots of rain and a short spell of cool wind but other than that it was warm, dry, sunny and relatively calm.

We climbed most of the classic routes between us that evening with Jim having a cracking night leading Keep Arete VS 4b, The Crack VS 4b, Studio HS 4b, The Nithin S 4a, Scoop Face HVS 5a and Nozag VS 4c. Check out the KMC members facebook page for a great photo of Jim on scoop face before he got some gear in…..

Andy P managed about ten routes of which he solo’d eight – The Arete, Fifth horseman, thin cracks, The Nose, Niche arete, Pilgrims Progress, Little Pillar and Keep arete.

Everyone else led two or three routes on a relaxed and fun evenings climbing.

Andy S

Evening meet: Blackstone Edge

Wed 19th May, 2021

As far as we know no-one went on this midweek meet, not because the weather was terrible but more because it's a bit of a crap venue that should probably never have been on the list! Oh well, we know for next year!

Committee members

Evening Meet: Dovestones Edge

Wed 26th May, 2021

(No Reports)

Evening Meet: Horseshoe Quarry

Wed 2nd Jun, 2021

Horsehoe Quarry  / Burbage North – Midweek 2^nd June 2021

Horsehoe-ers - Members: Adam McCudden, Jed Farmer

Burbage - Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Nils Elgar

Burbage - Prospective members: Rory Marsden, Steve Torley, Jacob Torley, Ian Bennett.

A breakaway contingent decided on the trad grit of Burbage North, advertising the alternative on the KMC scribble page.

Horsehoe still attracted a couple of members who both live much closer and an excellent evening's sport climbing was reported.  

It’s a good while since the meet that this is being written up so memories have faded as to exactly who did what that gorgeous sunny evening – Andy’s routes included Black Slab (Vs 4b), Sentinel Chimney (HVD 4a), Lieback (HS 4b), Black Slab variation (Diff, sol’d by a few of us), Big Chimney Arete (HS 4b) and the intimidating off-width of Hollyash Crack (VS 4b).

Other routes climbed were  Still Orange (S 4a) and Green Crack (VD).

The most notable event of the evening was Rory Marsden’s appearance with a rack of cams…. (refer to the meet report for the Stanage Newcomers meet, 1^st May 2021).

Another fine evening of climbing, in great company at a fabulous venue.

Evening Meet: Millstone Edge

Wed 9th Jun, 2021

Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Gowry Sisupalan

Prospective members: Rory Marsden, Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley

Millstone always feels like a tough and imposing venue and this warm but windy evening was no exception. Andy opened the evening with pitch 1 of Covent Garden (VS) – both Jim and Andy declining to climb P2 – the exposed and poorly protected arete. As they arrived back at the crag base Gowry and Caroline had just arrived and opted for a trip to the garden centre on The Scoop, a starred Diff which is in need of a little traffic! Jim blasted up The Mall (VS 4c) followed by Andy.

As Rory had arrived with Rhubarb (yes, the dog!) he opted for photography rather than climbing so there are some fine shots of most of the team having a crack at Embankment Route 2 (VS 4c) led with a relatively minimal amount of grunting from Jim. Caroline gamely followed, laybacking almost all the way, followed by Andy, then father and son team Jacob and Steve Torley.

Gowry and Caroline then headed round to Hells Bells buttress bay for a couple of easier routes, whilst Andy followed the polish on ‘The Great Slab (HS 4b), then the excellent upper section. Jacob followed in fine style, then Jim. Steve had an interesting time balancing on the slab, finding the polish in all the right places.

A lovely evening, midge free!

Evening Meet: Staden Quarry

Wed 16th Jun, 2021

Dovestones Edge (alternative midweek meet to Staden Quarry) 16^th June 2021

Deviant Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, John Cox

Prospective members: Rory Marsden, Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley

A few weeks back Dovestones was on the list but apart from the weather being marginal, both Jim and I were away. Neither of us fancied Staden, hence the plan was advertised to have a deviant group from the ‘’official’’ KMC weds…. for an alternative evening at Dovestones Edge in the Chew valley. It really is in such a glorious spot for a sunny summer evening, and the weather played out 100% tonight. Enough sun to climb in a T-shirt but enough wind to blow the midges off, even at the base of the crag. The 45-minute walk in seemed perfectly reasonable for the rewards reaped in terms of the stunning views.

Jim opted for a start on Swan Crack (S4a) noted in the guidebook as (ahem!) ‘’an Old Timers favourite’’…… a cracking route. Andy followed up on the adjacent Noddys Wall at VS 4b, a cracking route with just enough gear to make it seem reasonable, Jim followed and then John Cox who had just arrived.

‘’is everything here rounded?’’ asked John?

Jim then opted for the absolute classic Left Embrasure VS 4b, a fabulously steep VS, but with great positive jams and jugs most of the way. John followed up in fine style with Andy last.

‘’Ok, so that wasn’t rounded but it was bloody steep’’…

You can’t please some people!

Jim and John then partnered for the rest of the evening climbing Central Tower (V Diff), Matchstick Crack (Severe) and Answer Crack (V Diff), all which Jim led in usual fine style. Whilst John was working his biceps on Embrasure, Rory and Caroline climbed Central Tower then went on to Coopers Crack HS 4b which Rory thoroughly enjoyed. Matchstick Crack (S) is often green and slimy at the back of the bay near Embrasure, and hadn’t looked appealing on previous visits, so Andy led it for the first time with Jacob in hot pursuit. Sadly, Steve couldn’t join in the climbing this evening after twisting his ankle on the walk-in.

After this it was time for a mass ascent of the three-star moorland classic of Nasal Buttress HS 4b led by Andy (with a little hesitation at the crux!) and followed by Jacob, Caroline, and Rory who then wanted one final route before it went dark and we had seen Jim in a fabulous position on the wall of Answer Cack (V diff) from across the gully, so we dashed across, and Rory led it giving his answer without deviation, hesitation, or repetition.

The first tiniest hint of midge arrived as we packed up at 9.15pm. It had been a wonderful evening of moorland grit with great company, thanks to everyone for coming.

Evening Meet: Lawrencefield

Wed 23rd Jun, 2021

Lawrencefield Midweek

Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Gareth Williams, Andy Pierce

Prospective Members: Rory Marsden, Steve Torley, Jacob Torley

Jim led Tyrone VS 4c, Nova HS 4b, Nailsbane HVD and the top pitch of Great Harry VS 4c after Rory had wilted his forearms on the strenuous first pitch!

Andy led Gingerbread VS 4b, Meringue HVS 5a, Branching Off (Three tree climb variation) HS 4c, and followed Jim on Nova and Tyrone. Gingerbread is an interesting one – relatively easy climbing but just two bits of gear which might just stop you hitting the ground. Meringue, it’s harder next door neighbour is actually much better protected with a decent selection of small cams, although the start is very polished as Steve Torley will attest! Jacob made short work of Branching off, speeding up after Andy, however the technical start proved too much for Steve, who handed over the rope to Gareth after a series of valiant attempts.

Rory followed Nova, Meringue and led Snail Crack and P1 of Great Harry, with arms seriously wilted after the major corner crack, Jim was called on to complete P2!

Gareth led Great Harry and followed Andy P on Delectable Direct E1 5c

Andy P solo’d a progressively more serious set of cakes - Gingerbread, Meringue and Éclair!

A great evening, excellent company….. and very few midges as a bonus – which is not always the case at Lawrencefield.

Evening Meet: Witches Quarry

Wed 30th Jun, 2021

(No Reports)

Evening Meet: The Roaches

Wed 7th Jul, 2021

Poor weather this week for The Roaches, but maybe we will get lucky for the traditional weekend meet - this year on Sunday 15th August.

Committee members

Evening Meet: Shining Clough

Wed 14th Jul, 2021

Shining Clough midweek – 14^th July 2021

Members: Andy Stratford, Jim Symon, Rory Marsden

Prospective member: Caroline Gay

An excellent forecast for a moorland crag, and my first summer visit, having climbed Shining Clough icefall and two ice routes on the crag this winter with Gareth.

The walk in is notorious for the path being hard to both find and follow, and tonight was no exception – once the waterway of shining clough itself is crossed the path just does a disappearing act leading to 30 minutes of hardcore heather, bracken, and boulder bashing. Jim and I arrived at the crag, perspiring gently at about 4 ish and I was immediately struck by the striking crack and arete of 24m long three star VS classic, Phoenix Climb.

Jim decided to warm us up on the adjacent 3 star classic Severe of Via Principa. As ever Jim made short work of the 25 metre route Following up, I was engaged with some fabulous rough grit, unpolished despite many ascents (well, many for a moorland crag), following strong natural features. It had everything; exposure, cracks, jugs, gear wherever you wanted - an absolute joy and with doubt worth 4 stars - if fact, I'd say the best single pitch grit route at that grade I've ever climbed.

Rory and Caroline arrived just as we were arriving back at the base, Rory keen to lead it himself after listening to our enthusiasm. On reaching the top Rory’s grin was a broad as mine from his lead on Via Principa – Phoenix Climb VS was also amazing – with some brilliant jamming in the lower part and a wildly exposed arete near the top.

Somehow, I managed to get a nut stuck as part of my belay and after both Jim and I tried to free it to no avail I resorted to bashing my nut key with a small rock which put a tiny bend in it. Jim stretched out his healing hands to give my wonky nut key some loving attention, one gentle bend was all it would take to…. Snap it in half!! Thanks Jim!!

We wandered off to Pisa Buttress, it was Jim’s lead. Pisa Superdirect was the chosen line – yet another 3 star route, and again, it proved to be worth every one of those stars. Jim made the first section look easy as usual, but the overhanging crux did cause a little pause for thought…. I followed up and was super impressed with the lead – what a tough route!

Rory and Caroline went on a mission looking for V diff or severe on a ‘less trodden’ part of the crag and ended up new routing and gardening for the rest of the evening!!

The steep wall/slab on the right of Pisa buttress had a nasty looking off width called Stable Cracks described as ‘’a good straightforward introduction to the crag’’…. So, in other words a total sandbag! I grabbed my larger cam and set off on the mission.

‘’Sorry Jim’’.

I called, as the third large lump of vegetation hit his head as I gardened my way up, casually trashing my clothes and skin. One of the off width sections required udging of the cam upwards as I squirmed uncomfortably behind it, twisting nefarious parts of my body into the crack, in fact I reckon the first ascensionist was swearing about how they could ‘’stable a bloody horse in here’’ when they came up with the name! I made it to the top – sweaty, filthy, and bleeding mildly. Next time I’ll pay more attention to the route name.

Four mega routes and we decided we would call it a day, after all, there was the matter of the walkout!

Evening Meet: Stanage left hand end

Wed 21st Jul, 2021

Wednesday 21^st July 2021

Evening Meet: Stanage left hand end

Members: David Rainsbury, Rory Marsden

Prospective members: Caroline Gay, Jacob Torley, Steve Torley, Liam Bell

As Caroline said she wouldn’t be able to arrive until after 4pm naturally she was the only person who had arrived at the Dennis Knoll car park by the time we had arranged. David and I arrived shortly after and once the local sheep had inspected our cars and climbing gear (Stanage Covid protocol) we set off for the crag. As neither Caroline or I had climbed at Stanage North before, we weren’t expecting anyone else, and it seemed rash to carry our gear too far on a hot afternoon, we decided to start at High Neb and possibly move further left later.

Having identified a suitably shady section of the crag I started with Mantleshelf climb (VD) followed in good style by David and Caroline. After some light hearted speculation on whether Old Friends (E4 6a) was an appropriate test for his new knee, David then led Tango Crack (VD), employing the layaway right start, for his first lead on grit in two years. Caroline and I followed for a fine start to the evening.

I had just made the first moves on High Neb Buttress Arete (S 4a) when there was a polite enquiry as to whether we were with KMC. This turned out to be new prospective member Liam. Liam had, quite fairly, assumed that we would actually be at the left hand end of Stanage and so parked at Moscar and trekked down from there, including a battle through the bracken to the finally arrive at High Neb. Sorry Liam!

Liam and David teamed up and Liam warmed up with a lead of Where did my Tan Go? (HVS 5a) which turned out to be a more thorough test for David and his new knee.

By now Jacob and Steve had arrived and so they joined me and Caroline to climb High Neb Buttress Arete. As a party of four we arrived back to the foot of the crag in time to have prime seats for Liam discovering that the guidebook description of The Dalesman (HVS 5a) was indeed accurate. “The beckoning break gives a good pump with runners galore”. David again seconded Liam and confirmed that The Dalesman gives a good pump whether you are leading or seconding.

I then led Lost Soul (S 4a) with Jacob and Caroline, while Liam moved on to lead one of the Stanage classics, High Neb Buttress (VS 4c). Steve was keen to have a crack at High Neb Buttress so he joined Liam on that and found that the key mantleshelf moves are well positioned and balanced.

The final climb of the evening went to Jacob. Having led his first Moderate routes at Burbage a couple of weeks previously, Jacob stepped things up with an excellent lead of Tango Crack (VD), employing the straight up foot jam start. This was seconded by Caroline who must have had some sense of déjà vu as she made a second ascent of the evening.

By now a bright pink moon had risen over Stanage indicating that having climbed until 9.30pm we had definitely made the most of the evening. We all headed home having bagged some excellent routes, caught some evening sunshine and with only one or two midge bites!

Evening Meet: Robs Rocks

Wed 28th Jul, 2021

A poor forecast for the Chew Valley which included thunderstorms was proved right, so no-one went up to Rob's rocks this week. Lets hope for better weather for Bamford next week.

Committee members.

Evening Meet: Bamford Edge

Wed 4th Aug, 2021

An awful forecast for Bamford meant that no-one went this time.

Some members may try Bamford again next week 11th August instead of Helsby which is a poor crag.

Committee members.

Evening Meet: Bamford (Roll-over due to rain last week)

Wed 11th Aug, 2021

(No Reports)

Evening Meet: Robs Rocks (Roll-over due to rain)

Wed 18th Aug, 2021

(No Reports)

Evening Meet: Windgather Rocks

Wed 25th Aug, 2021

Windgather Rocks Wed 25^th August 2021

Members: Roger Dyke, Andy Stratford, Andy Pierce, Dave Wylie, Rory Marsden, Chris Kastavunis, Caro Churchill, Steve Lopacki, Adam McCudden, Ged Farmer

Prospective Members: Brian Tarnowski, Harry Potts, Holly Warder, James Pike, Daniel Arrowsmith, Anna Laws, Catriona Kastavunis,

Seventeen members and prospective members out on a classic Windgather evening – sunshine and light winds, unfortunately not breezy enough for the critters…. Not midges though. FLYING ANTS! At the top of random buttresses, randomly all evening. Randomly. AARghhh!!

Roger initially claimed to just be there to take photos, but after 15 minutes he had his harness on and was on High Buttress Arete!

The rest of us climbed all the classic Windgather routes, a few notable ascents were Daniel Arrowsmith onsight ascent of Portfolio HVS 5b, followed very capably by Holly then Andy S. Rory also led it and again was followed in good style by Anna – who had a cracking evening, leading her first two routes under Rory’s watchful eye.

Brian also got a few leads in with Dave assisting, and Caro moved up a gear on her trad game with a solid lead of Mississippi crack.

Many routes were solo’d as well, with Andy Pierce offering belay wisdom at the top of the crag to all those less familiar with the process.

We were treated to a superb sunset, as well as the good company, let see a good turnout next week as the equally sunset-tastic Alderman Rocks, followed by a trip to the pub.

Evening Meet: Alderman Rocks

Wed 1st Sep, 2021

Alderman Rocks 1^st Sept 2021

Members: Dave Wylie, Jim Symon, Andy Stratford, Rory Marsden

Prospective Members: Holly Warder, Ed Courtnell, Daniel Arrowsmith

The sun broke through in the afternoon and the forecast hinted at a pleasant if chillier evening. In fact, it was just on the right side of chilly and a stiff breeze kept the midges away at this, one of the best views you can get on our midweek crag circuit. Four members of the Ruscac club were also recorded as present on the first occasion this season when we have crossed venues on a midweek.

Ed, on his first KMC Meet and first time at Alderman led Dave up Rib and Face (HVD 4a), The Great Gatsby (VS 4c) and F route (VD 3c).

With a variety of finishes on offer it is difficult to really take full notes of what we all did – often climbing pitches on the second tier that bore no relation to the parent route lower down so what follows is a bit of an approximation!

Jim and Andy, Great Slab Arete (S 3c) with a finish up an off-width chimney, followed by The Great Slab (VS 4c) with Jim unusually taking the slab on P1 and Andy jamming the overhanging crack on P2. This was followed by Andy leading up Great Slab Right (HVS 5a) then an upper pitch (the Face), for these two they were joined by late arrival Rory.

Meanwhile, Daniel and Holly teamed up to dispatch Pygmy Wall (S 3c), Golden Wonder (E1 5b or Highball V1), the Face pitch and both pitches of The Great Slab.   

We left as darkness was falling around 8pm and headed down to The Clarence for a beer and a natter – just like old times pre-Covid…. Maybe things are starting to get back to normal after all….

Evening Meet: Hobson Moor

Wed 8th Sep, 2021

Members:
   Rory Marsden, Caro C, Steve Lopacki, Jim Symon, Dave Wylie

Prospective Members:
   Alexandra Lancaster, Daniel Arrowsmith, Holly Warder, James Pike

A very warm evening at Hobson Moor saw a decent turnout from the KMC, with a good mix of existing and prospective members - including a new face in the form of Alex on her first time out with the club.

Most of the favourite routes were ticked, including: Pocket Wall, The Harp, Epitaph Corner, Foghorn Groove, Parker's Eliminate, Tighe's Arête, etc. Members who led routes then provided ropes from above and plenty of encouragement to those who were still getting used to outdoor climbing on proper rock, or whose ability to lead V-Diff seemed to have melted away in the heat...

People continued to climb until (and, indeed, after!) the light began to fade. The dreaded midges were also attempting to join the meet by this point, so most attendees headed off - some in the direction of a local watering hole for refreshments.

It was an excellent evening's climbing, enjoyed by everyone. Let's look forward to more of it next week, at New Mills Torrs.

Evening Meet: New Mills Torrs

Wed 15th Sep, 2021

Prospective Members:
   Holly Warder, Daniel Arrowsmith

Member:
   Dave Wylie

It was a rather smaller, but no less enthusiastic, turnout for the antepenultimate outdoor evening meet of the year. Numbers were eroded partly due to at least one of the usual suspects being otherwise engaged on the Club's week-long trip to Skye.

Holly arrived first and, while waiting for others, only managed to avoid being recruited into a religious group by pointing out that the "Bible" that she was seen to be reading was actually a climbing guidebook. Same thing, really...

Dan turned up an hour or so later, having been so keen to get out that he initially went to next week's venue before realising he should be about 13 miles due south of there!

Dave got to the crag a few minutes after Dan, mumbling excuses about heavy traffic preventing him arriving sooner. Note to self: set off earlier in future.

With the team finally assembled, Dan tied in to the sharp end of the rope and did all the leading for the evening. His first route was "Cracked Corner" (S, 4a). Holly and Dave followed him up this, but the consensus was that the Rockfax grade (Hard Severe, 4b) was more appropriate - given the steepness of the route and the fact that all of Dan's gear flipped out as the rope was being taken in after he'd belayed at the top. An abseil descent was made from the in-situ maillon tied to the tree at the top.

Next, Dan led the classic HVS, 5a "Alcove Crack". This also seemed to be very steep and proved problematical for both seconds. Dave blamed his struggles on a lack of climbing for nearly two years, as his arms shrivelled away on the middle section of the route. Another abseil descent avoided any need to trespass into the garden of the property above the crag.

With the sunlight starting to fade, attention moved to the bolted (and floodlit!) sports routes on the pillars of the viaduct holding up Union Road. The guidebook suggests using a clip-stick to reach the first bolt. We didn't have one - but then Dan didn't need any such method of cheating! He led "The Price of Admission" (F6a+), up the arête of one pillar. Dave, then Holly, only managed to get about two thirds of the way up this when seconding. This meant that Dan had to do a final route, "The Thin End of the Hedge" (F6a), in order to thread the lower-off bolts and retrieve his gear.

A good, if short, evening's climbing. More fun to be had next week at Den Lane!

Evening Meet: Den Lane

Wed 22nd Sep, 2021

(No Reports)

Evening Meet: Standedge

Wed 29th Sep, 2021

(No Reports)

Stockport Awesome Walls

Mon 1st Nov, 2021

(No Reports)

The Depot: Manchester

Thu 4th Nov, 2021

(No Reports)

Stockport Awesome Walls

Mon 8th Nov, 2021

(No Reports)

The Depot: Manchester

Thu 11th Nov, 2021

(No Reports)

Stockport Awesome Walls

Mon 15th Nov, 2021

(No Reports)

The Depot: Manchester

Thu 18th Nov, 2021

(No Reports)

Stockport Awesome Walls

Mon 22nd Nov, 2021

(No Reports)

The Depot: Manchester

Thu 25th Nov, 2021

(No Reports)

Stockport Awesome Walls

Mon 29th Nov, 2021

(No Reports)

The Depot: Manchester

Thu 2nd Dec, 2021

(No Reports)

Stockport Awesome Walls

Mon 6th Dec, 2021

(No Reports)

The Depot: Manchester

Thu 9th Dec, 2021

(No Reports)

Stockport Awesome Walls

Mon 13th Dec, 2021

(No Reports)

The Depot: Manchester

Thu 16th Dec, 2021

(No Reports)

Stockport Awesome Walls

Mon 20th Dec, 2021

(No Reports)

The Depot: Manchester

Thu 23rd Dec, 2021

(No Reports)