Joint KMC-AC Meet - Kyajo Ri 6186m, Khumbu. Nepal, Autumn 2025.

Dates: UK departure 1st Nov to 28th Nov 2025

Meet Organiser: Andy Stratford (KMC / AC member)

This expedition is FULL and the application process is now closed. 

Introduction and team

This joint Greater Ranges Open Meet links the Karabiner Mountaineering Club with the Alpine Club. It is a single-objective expedition to climb Kyajo Ri 6186m. Following an application process in January / February 2025 Andy is joined by Stevie Graham and Jess Bailey from the KMC - the other team members are from the AC; overall there are three women and seven men on the trip ranging in age from mid-thirties to mid-sixties. 

The Objective

Kyajo Ri 6,186m is the highest point on the range of mountains sandwiched between the Thame and Gokyo valleys and is accessed from a valley north of Namche Bazaar (3400m). To acclimatise fully for maximum chance to succeed on this 6000m peak the team will fly into Lukla (2800m) and then follow an eleven-day acclimatisation circuit via Namche Bazaar (3450m), Gokyo (4790m), Gokyo Ri (5360m),  Renjo La pass (5360m) before dropping back towards Thame (3800m) then up the quiet Khumuche Himal valley to Base Camp at 4490m. The itinerary then allows a generous 8 full days to climb and descend Kyajo Ri which includes load carrying over sometimes difficult terrain to three further camps, Alpine Lake camp (4900m), Glacier camp (ABC) at 5370m then Camp 1 at 5700m. Summit-day is on an aesthetic narrowing exposed snow ridge/ice pitches/mixed ground to 6186m on ground of approx. AD+ difficulty. The mountain has been somewhat under the radar and whilst commercial expeditions do climb it, it has a tiny fraction of the ascents of the other popular Khumbu peaks as it’s a little harder. The valley has some other interesting mountains many of which have been climbed only a few times and there are still teams climbing new routes on these peaks, including some of the harder face routes on Kyajo Ri. We will pass Phuletate 5597m, Machhermo 5559m, Teningbo 5839m, and others. 

Karabiner MC -  Mountaineering Grant

The KMC team, Andy, Stevie and Jess would like to acknowledge the kind support of the KMC Grants committee and of the benefactor(s) who make this grant scheme possible – your support is as deeply appreciated as ever.