Trevor Rocks provides seven limestone walls and buttresses along the escarpment overlooking Llangollen.  The climbing is mainly single pitch sport routes but there is some trad, particularly in the main quarry, so you may want to bring a rack.

It’s a beautiful area with fine views that provides a great setting for climbing. There are plenty of starred routes at a range of grades so why not try somewhere different from your usual haunts. Anybody wanting a greater concentration of harder routes could call in for a while and then pay a visit to nearby Dinbren.

Approach from the A539 by lanes from either Trevor or Llangollen to reach the Panorama Walk road that runs below the rocky escarpment. There is a large layby at Grid Ref. SJ 233432 below the distinctive square cut main quarry. Other smaller parking areas can be found nearby.

I propose to set up camp in the Over Yr Wall area and work our way along the escarpment during the day. I’ll aim to be there by 10.30am.

From the layby follow the obvious incline running diagonally up leftwards (as you look inwards) to join a path that traverses the hillside below the crags. Turn left along this track and carry onto the left-hand end of the line of buttresses (about ten mins walking from the car park).

As this is an early meet with a damp start to the year there is a backup walk with a route to Worlds End and back from the same parking spot, about 13Km with 580m of ascent as a backup in case the weather doesn’t play ball.

For further information see - UKC Logbook - Trevor Quarry (ukclimbing.com)

Guidebook - Clwyd Limestone by Mark Glaister and Lee Proctor (Rockfax 2015)