Sat 6th Jul - Sun 21st Jul, 2024
Zermatt
Introduction
Zermatt is a well-known alpine mountaineering area in south-west Switzerland on the border with Italy. The area is known as Valais and is famous for skiing in winter, mountaineering in summer, and is home of the epic pyramid of the Matterhorn, one of the most famous and familiar peaks in the world.
The Zermatt area is also home to another 37 mountains of 4000m+ and many more of lesser altitude. There are 15 mountain huts and a plethora of ski lifts which permit access to the mountains. In the summer months alpinism, rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking and via ferrata are the mountain sports on offer (although there is talk of summer skiing on the glaciers), and in July 2024, the KMC will visit for a few weeks to explore and enjoy the mountains there.
The Valais area has three main settlements along the valley that are connected by a train/shuttle. The valley runs south to north. Going south (up) the valley, the three settlements are Randa, Tasch and Zermatt is at the end. Zermatt is a pedestrianised area and cars are not permitted there. To get to Zermatt one must take the shuttle which takes 20 minutes from Randa, and 12 minutes from Tasch.
The club will be camping in Randa This can be reached by car and by public transport, and has shuttle links a short walk from the campsite. It has direct access on foot to the Dom (4546) and its connecting massive to the east, and the Weisshorn (4505) massive to the west sides. The Zermatt area is easily reached by taking the shuttle. Here there is access to the Matterhorn (4478), Dufourspitze (4633), the Dent Blanche (4357) amongst many many more…it will be an amazing trip!
Details:
When:
The club will be visiting for 2 weeks between Saturday 6th July to Sunday 21st July 2024. Attendees are free to join the meet any time for as long as they wish.
Travel:
Travel to Randa can be made by flying to Geneva, Milan or Zurich, and transfer by car or public transport. It is also possible to drive directly to Randa, or to take public transport directly. Costs will vary. Please plan your journey well in advance.
Camping:
The club will be camping in Randa at Camping Attermenzen. The campsite is large and well equipped. The campsite will be made aware of the clubs’ arrival, but attendees must book their own pitch. Booking your camping in advance is advised. Details can be found here:
https://www.campingranda.ch/eng/welcome/
Skills and competencies:
Valais is a huge mountain area that is full of activities for all mountain enthusiasts of all abilities, however, please be mindful of your skills when considering what activities you want to do. For example, a gritstone rock climber may climb single pitches competently, but a long alpine rock route may require knowledge and skills in multipitch climbing, self-rescue and technical navigation too. A scottish winter climber can move technically using an ice axe and crampons, but an alpine climber needs skills in glacier travel, avalanche awareness and crevasse rescue. Since the club is a really a group of friends, matching people in good, well-balanced partnerships is important to keep people safe. It’s no big deal, just be honest and you’ll make the right partnerships!
The club is running two alpine skills courses in advance of the Zermatt meet. The courses are being led by Llanberis based British Mountain Guide, Andy Teasdale, on Sunday 5th and Monday 6th May 2024. This is the weekend of the KMC Alpine Theme Weekender at Ty Powdwr and the courses will run out of the clubs’ hut.
Day 1: Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue
Approaching alpine summits is often by glacier and the risk of falling into crevasses is real. This course teaches/revises good practice for glacier travel and the rescue systems needed in case the worst should happen. This is an essential course for all those wishing to head out onto glaciated terrain. The topic should be revised before every alpine trip and is highly advised.
Day 2: Technical Alpine mountaineering
There are many techniques of moving while roped in the mountains. Which technique is used depends on the terrain, and since the terrain changes often in the mountains, being able to dynamically change the rope system is the key to climbing efficiently. This can make the difference between a slick and fun ascent, or a 20-hour epic! This course will teach/revise these rope techniques and put them to use in technical mountain environments. It is an often overlooked topic but essential for all moutaineers.
The courses are subsidised by the KMC grant scheme and are being offered at £40pppd. Bookings are open to full and associate members and there are initially 8 places available per day. If you would like to book a place, please contact the meet leader.
PERSONAL NOTE: £80 for a two full days training in alpine climbing with a BMG is a great deal and a great opportunity! Even if you have learned these skills before, coming to revise and ask questions is a valuable learning experience. It is highly recommended!
Guidebooks:
The Swiss Alps: Cicerone, ISBN 9781852844653 (Alpine and trek)
The 4000m Peaks of the Alps: Alpine Club, ISBN 9780900523663 (Alpine)
Swiss Alps, Vertebrae Publishing, ISBN 9781910240557 (Alpine and trek)
Valais Alps East, Alpine Club, ISBN 9780900523625 (Alpine)
Valais Alps West, Alpine Club ISBN 9780900523618 (Alpine)
Schweiz Plaisir Selection, ISBN 9783906087405 (Rock)
Oberwallis (SAC), ISBN 9783859023109 (Rock)
Mapping and apps:
A very handy free mapping app of the Swiss alps (yes it’s the real stuff): https://schweizmobil.ch/en/switzerlandmobility-app
Outdoor Active have full mapping for the area on there app. This is by paid subscription, but there are other benefits:
https://www.outdooractive.com/en/
The Swisstopo maps can be bought at Stanfords. The links below are for the 1:25K versions that cover the whole area:
https://www.stanfords.co.uk/Zermatt-Gornergrat-Swisstopo-2515_9783302025155
https://www.stanfords.co.uk/Saas-Fee-Swisstopo-2526_9783302025261
Other useful info/links:
What to do now?
If you are interested and want to come please click the intend to attend button, or contact the meet leader directly. Then start planning your summer mountain adventure! If you need any advice or have questions please get in contact. It's going to be a epic trip and I really hope to see you all in Switzerland this summer.
Jared Kitchen
