Sun 18th Sep, 2016
Trowbarrow Climbing
Members: Nils Elgar, Andy Stratford, Clay Conlon, Dave Wylie, Tony Major, Gareth Williams, Colin Maddison, Duncan Zerafa, Craig Marsden, Sue Marsden, Steve Graham.
Guests: Pete Mosley, Lisa Stock, Gemma Southerington, Richard Applegate, Alastair Philp, Jack Buzcko.
So I made a list of all the Bowie themed Routes – nine in all: Scary Monsters E5 6b; Night Flight VS 4c, 5a; Cracked Actor E2 5b; Aladdinsane E1 5a; Jean Jeanie VS 4c; Major Tom E2 5c; The Man who fell to Earth E4 5c; Rock n Roll Suicide E2 5b; Heroes E3 5c. KMC members managed three in all – so ‘’could do better’’!!
On his first visit to Trowbarrow, Clay opened his account with Assegai HVS 5a followed by Andy and Tony. Clay and Tony teamed up for the rest of the day with Tony leading Warspite HVS 5a, and Clay Hollow Earth HVS 5a and Harijan VS 4c
Assegai also had a lead from Gareth and a second from Steve Graham, with a third by a pair of motorcycle boots.....Earlier Gareth had made the hardest lead of the day with a fine effort on the super-steep finger jamming of the 30m E2 5b Cracked Actor. Colin and Andy both followed but both needed ‘’a little rest’’ to complete the route. The motorcycle boots did a little better and got up all on their own.
The horrendous 30m off-width struggle of Aladdinsane E1 5a was tackled by Andy – bizarrely having climbed it once before was not enough. He won’t be doing it again, and it’s fairly unlikely that Nils, who was the only one curious enough to follow Andy up, will be looking at it on lead! Nils decided on far more sensible action on the main wall on the sublime Jean Jeanie VS 4c, followed by Pete Mosley.
Coral Sea VS 4c had leads from Nils, Colin and Steve and was seconded by Andy and Craig. Dave Wylie led Barrier Reef S 4a with Gemma following on and when Colin led he was followed by the husband and wife Marsden duo. This was followed up with another fine Colin lead of Sluice HVS 5a, again with Craig. Boomerang V Diff had leads from Pete Mosley and Dave Wylie with Gemma and Lisa Stocks following. Dave also had a good lead on the long Severe Ramp Ant, followed by Nils and Pete Mosley. Richard Applegate partnered with Alastair Philp and also led Ramp Ant plus Ordinary Route. Steve and Lisa Stocks asked Les.
Duncan Zerafa teamed up with Jack Buzcko for the day. They climbed Barrier Reef and Jomo then came the main event – Jean Jeanie. Suitably equipped with two of Andy’s big cams, Duncan started up the wall and crack. Now, considering Duncan has only been leading trad for one season, this was good going, but the almost inevitable wilting of arms occurred which was followed by a rest of two on the rope. The rest of us were packing up while Duncan was still suspended....Andy thoughtfully decided to leave Duncan with his cams (getting them back was tricky as he was hanging off one of them!). The following week, we learnt that Jack had a few problems on second – the wilting arms malaise had spread – but also some stuck gear. An abseil in the dark to retrieve followed – a fine effort from both the boys!
Thanks all for attending a fine and fun meet.
Andy S
Meet Promo:
NOTE THE CHANGE OF DATE - THIS WAS ON THE 4th SEPT BUT HAS BEEN SWOPPED WITH JIM'S CHEW VALLEY MEET
One of the very best Lancashire limestone venues with several three star trad routes between VS and E2 on the 25m main wall, and many other excellent 2 star routes. It is a pleasant, open green place, and the view across Morecambe Bay from the belays at the top of the main wall are simply fantastic.
I chose the return to this place at the back end of last year, before the death of David Bowie, and I'm hoping that KMC members will climb as many of the Bowie themed routes as possible this weekend including Jean Jeanie, Cracked actor and Aladinsane - bring your no 6 friend for the latter!
There are other superb routes spread around the quarry, including a three star V Diff (Jomo) and an excellent severe called Ramp Ant, the amazing HVS of Assagai wall and the classic VS Coral Sea.
There is some good bouldering here as well, if that's your thing.
The really big bonus is that the new Lancashire Guidebook is published on the first weekend of September and I am told it features stunning shots of Trowbarrow and excellent new Topo's. A great reason to rush out, buy your copy and come and try your hand at one of the incredible routes here.
Meet at 10.30am near main wall.
Andy S