Lofoten

Friday 24th July

Sheena and Sabina arrive at Evenes, getting the meet underway. Little do they know that their airport transfers are about to become a rather more significant part of the holiday than anticipated.

Saturday 25th July

Phoebe arrives at Evenes and is stranded by the rest of her car spending the night in Copenhagen, where Sheena and Sabina very kindly make the return trip to collect her. The rest of the party – Liam, Colin, Mary, Sue, Craig, Andy, Jo, Roger and Bridget – have managed to miss their connecting flight thanks to a delayed plane. Rather than spend the entire day contemplating their misfortune, they make the most of an unexpected stopover in Copenhagen, exploring the city before enjoying dinner courtesy of Scandinavian Airlines.

Meanwhile, the advance party makes its way to Lofoten, ready to get the climbing underway.

Sunday 26th July

Andy and Jo have an early start for their first flights of the day, while Phoebe, Sabina and Sheena decide to make the most of a dry morning and head to Paradiset.

The plan is for an easy introduction to the local climbing. The reality is rather different. The three manage to find the top of Storsvaet and can see Living in Paradise, but like the real thing it eludes them. Living in Paradise is also wet from the tide, so they move on to the Main Cliff. After spending two hours repeatedly arriving at the top of the crag rather than the bottom, and with the weather turning damp, they declare the outing a reconnaissance mission and retreat to Henningsvær – lost in paradise!

There is consolation in the form of the famous football pitch, fish sandwiches and a visit to the bakery, where they appear to buy out a substantial proportion of the islands buns. The team then returns to welcome the delayed arrivals, who have finally made it to Lofoten.

Monday 27th July

With everyone assembled, most of the party – Liam, Andy, Roger, Bridget, Colin, Sabina, Sheena, Craig and Phoebe – head back to Paradiset to have another go at finding the bottom of the crags. Mary, Sue and Jo opt for a slower morning.

This time Colin leads the way and the base of the crag is found almost immediately. Unfortunately, the tide has other ideas, with the usual approach to the Main Cliff submerged. The climbing party therefore begins the day with an alternative approach climb, not recorded in the guidebook and estimated at around Norwegian grade 3+. Roger, Colin and Phoebe share the leading to get the party over to the Main Cliff.

Once there, Colin and Craig lead Laber Bris (N4+). The group then makes its way across an adventurous boulder field to the Dammen area. Colin and Craig peel off to climb Sva Magen (N5-), while Liam and Andy rejoin the others having already climbed the same route.

Phoebe, Liam, Andy, Roger, Bridget, Sheena and Sabina continue at Dammen, climbing Diederet (N3+) and Sentrums Risset (N4), with Liam and Andy also tackling Venstre Risset (N4+).

Meanwhile, Mary, Sue and Jo head into town to stock up on supplies, explore the beach near the accommodation and prepare a barbecue for the returning climbers. After the day's efforts, everyone reunites over a well-earned BBQ.

Tuesday 28th July

Liam and Andy make an early start for Pianokrakken. A few hours later, Phoebe, Colin and Craig follow to climb Pianokrakken Lunda Rute (N4+).

While gearing up at the base, Phoebe is convinced she can hear Andy laughing somewhere above. Sure enough, Liam and Andy, who have been on the go for hours already, are at the top of the second pitch. Craig links the first two pitches together and soon joins Liam at the belay.

Craig's technical climbing language makes a notable appearance on the fourth pitch. Following her father's example, Phoebe adopts the same approach on the fifth. The precise vocabulary has not been recorded for posterity, but it evidently gets the job done.

Elsewhere, Roger, Bridget, Sabina and Sheena head to Rørvika for Rock and Roll Ridge, rewarded with 360-degree views across the archipelago. Having bumped into the ridge party at Rørvikstranda, Liam and Andy cannot resist an additional outing and head up themselves, reaching the top in 50 minutes.

Jo spends the day working, while Mary and Sue enjoy a leisurely visit to Henningsvær, including lunch with a view from the top of the island, a gallery visit and a wander around town.

Most of the group reunites at Rørvikstranda for a paddle before returning to the accommodation for a shared dinner of pasta and quiche. Liam and Andy are absent, presumably finding something else to climb.

Wednesday 29th July

The forecast for Svolvær is wet, so the group abandons any hope of a full day on the rock and makes alternative plans.

Jo and Andy explore Henningsvær before driving over to Gimsøya to inspect the golf course for Sheena. They then head up Hoven, providing the first Arctic summit of the trip.

Mary, Sue, Colin, Craig and Phoebe decide to escape the rain with a road trip south. Progress is predictably slow, with a stop at almost every viewpoint. In Fredvang they discover a lovely knitwear shop; at Sakrisøy they stop for fish burgers; in Reine they find pastries; and in Å they wander around the village at the end of the road.

Roger, Bridget, Sabina and Sheena spend the day exploring Svolvær. Bridget and Roger head out for an evening walk, with the name of their hill still to be confirmed. Liam also goes for a walk – does he know where he went.

The day finishes with Craig and Phoebe driving to Gimsøy Beach for a midnight sunset. Even after a day of driving rain, Lofoten manages to provide a spectacular end to the evening.

Thursday 30th July

With more unsettled weather, most of the group heads over to Skrova for a day of exploring. Andy stays behind to work, while Mary and Colin enjoy a slower morning before heading to Paradiset for a walk and another reconnaissance of the climbing.

The ferry party – Phoebe, Craig, Roger, Bridget, Sabina, Sheena, Liam, Jo and Sue – arrives on Skrova in driving rain and immediately seeks refuge in the café by the harbour. A hearty Norwegian breakfast is just the ticket, and by the time everyone has finished eating, the rain has eased.

The group sets off together before splitting up. Jo and Sue head towards Socks Beach at Hattvika, while the others climb Skrovafjellet. Having reached the summit, Liams finds a little house where he suspects Andy is holed up. Liam and Phoebe jog down towards Socks Beach in an attempt to catch up with the rest of the party as they make their way around the island.

Everyone eventually reconvenes at the café for pastries and tea before catching the ferry back to the mainland. Another day successfully rescued from the weather, with the usual café stop firmly intact.

Friday 31st July

The rain returns with a vengeance, bringing another day of alternative activities.

Andy, Jo and Sue visit the Museum of Kabelvag Skrei, while Roger, Bridget, Sabina and Sheena explore the local art gallery, aquarium and museum. Mary and Colin enjoy a quiet morning, while Craig and Phoebe take on cooking duty, preparing dinner for the group before heading up Festvagtind just in time for to clouds to clear.

Saturday 1st August

With a better opportunity for climbing, Liam and Andy get out early for Gandalf (N5) a classic 3 pitch route. Craig, Colin and Phoebe follow later to climb the same route, with Phoebe seriously questioning her life choices after the first pitch. Liam and Andy, having completed Gandalf, continue on to Gollum (N5), while Craig, Colin and Phoebe decide that it is a little late and a beer and a bun at the bakery in Henningsvær is a suitable alternative.

Roger, Bridget, Sabina, Sheena and Carys head over to Paradiset for a day of climbing.

Mary, Sue and Jo's went to see a exhibition by local artist Espolin Johnson.

Sunday 2nd August

Liam and Andy once again make an early start, this time heading for The Goat climbing the classic 1910 Ruta (N4+) . Their timing is carefully planned around the poor forecast, allowing them to catch a weather window and get the climbing done before conditions deteriorate.

The rest of the group enjoys a slower morning, with one house even managing a morning yoga session.

Phoebe, Sue and Craig head to Eggum for a coastal walk towards Unstad, while Sabina, Sheena, Roger, Bridget and Carys make their way to Unstad and walk out to the lighthouse. The two parties reunite at Unstad Arctic Surf for an early dinner.

Phoebe and Carys then decide that watching the sea from the beach is not quite enough and brave the Norwegian Sea for a surf. Both demonstrate their surfing prowess to the impressed audience on the beach, and become the first members of the group to swim in the sea during the trip.

Monday 3rd August

The group splits up for another varied day of adventures.

Jo and Andy drive south to Reine and Å to see the sights, stopping at the Viking museum on the return journey and taking a trip on the Viking longboat.

Roger and Carys set off on an ambitious mountain challenge, completing the Lofoten High Six: a 25 km outing with over 2,000 m of ascent. The plan had apparently been for a High Five, but a peak was added by mistake. An easy error to make, presumably, when planning a casual day out in Lofoten.

Sheena, Sabina, Bridget and Liam head to Henningsvær before tackling Festvågtind. Liam is feeling a little under the weather, but he and the Aunties – Sabina and Bridget – all make it to the summit.

Phoebe, Sue, Mary, Colin and Craig enjoy a leisurely morning before heading to the Lofotr Viking Museum for a dose of Norse history.

Tuesday 4th August

Craig and Phoebe set off for Fløya, but the weather deteriorates the closer they get, so they sensibly turn around and head for Hoven instead. This proves to be a wise decision: they walk up in T-shirts in the sunshine, having successfully found the better weather window and fantastic views.

Bridget, Roger, Carys, Sabina and Liam start the day with yoga, while Sheena takes on the role of team photographer. Mary, Colin and Sue head into Svolvær for the morning, and Jo and Andy walk along the old road to Glomtinden.

In the afternoon, Andy and Liam return to Paradiset to try out the Living in Paradise area – the very sector that had eluded the advance party on the first Sunday. It has taken nearly a week, but the original reconnaissance mission may finally be paying off.

Sheena heads to Lofoten Links for what sounds like the most erratic round of golf on Gimsøya.

The rest of the group finishes the day with a white-tailed eagle RIB safari up Trollfjord, providing a spectacular view of Lofoten from the water and a fitting end to a week of exploring the islands.

Wednesday 5th August

Liam and Andy opt for an alpine start, keen to be first in the queue for Bare Blåbær in the Henningsvær area. Colin and Craig also head for the same route, but Craig is beginning to feel unwell, so the Geriatric Gentlemen change plans and switch to Gollum (N5) on Gandalf – Craig counts this as a success as he just avoids throwing up on the first pitch.

Roger, Bridget, Sabina and Sheena head to Pianohandler Linda Rute, while Phoebe and Carys make for Junior Veggen for a morning of cragging. Jo is working, and Mary and Sue enjoy a slower morning before heading to Rørvikstranda for a drawing session by the beach.

After completing their multi-pitches, Craig, Colin, Roger, Bridget, Sabina and Sheena make their way over to Junior Veggen to heckle the youngsters on the crag. Phoebe and Carys are thus treated to the kind of encouragement that every aspiring climber dreams of.

The entire Junior Veggen contingent then heads into Henningsvær for the now-established tradition of drinks and cake at Henningsvær Lysstøperi og Café.

On the drive home, Phoebe and Carys stop at Rørvikstranda for a swim – their second distinct swimming milestone of the trip, after their earlier surfing session at Unstad.

Thursday 6th August

The group fans out across Lofoten for another day of walking, sightseeing and climbing.

Craig, Sue and Phoebe drive down to Lofotodden National Park for a walk up Ryten, enjoying fantastic panoramic views across the archipelago.

Mary and Colin head to Paradiset for a day of cragging. The exact sector is still to be confirmed.

Sheena, Sabina and Liam take the scenic drive to Å, stopping off at Reine and Nusfjord along the way. On their return west, they bump into Phoebe, Sue and Craig, who are also making their way back from Ryten. Lofoten is a big place, but apparently not quite big enough to avoid the rest of the KMC.

Meanwhile, Carys, Roger and Bridget head to Haverringen for a walk along a ridge reminiscent of Crib Goch. They spot a pair of golden plovers and enjoy excellent views across Henningsvær.

Liam later describes his day out with Sheena and Sabina as a “care in the community day out”. The phrase is probably best left to speak for itself.

Friday 7th August

Sheena and Sabina travel home, while the remaining group continues to make the most of their last day in Lofoten

Phoebe, Colin and Craig head to Storsvaet at Paradiset for another day of climbing. Craig leads Back to Paradise (N3+), while Colin leads Storsvaet (N4+). Phoebe, meanwhile, invents a novel technique for climbing a layback crack without either laybacking or jamming!

Elsewhere, Liam, Roger and Bridget also head to Paradiset. They climb Storsvaet (N4+) before Bridget leads Carys, Roger and Liam up Butter Balls (N3+).

Sue heads to Rørvikstranda for a painting session, while Jo and Andy head to Eggum for a walk out to the Artscape sculpture and an excellent lunch at Furu.

 

Overall a fantastic, varied trip with a great introduction to the area

Phoebe Marsden